Sydney has the ‘wow factor’ for visitors. It’s intrinsically linked to Australian tourism and is undoubtably the first place that comes to mind, summoning images of the Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge and Bondi Beach. Most of my Sydney ventures have been ‘in and out’ trips for work, but the last time, I spent a few days taking the time to explore.
There has been a long standing rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne, the two largest cities in Australia, starting from differing visions of trade models in 1800s. You might be surprised that Sydney isn’t actually the capital of Australia, and that Canberra was newly established as neutral ground for government, between the two more obvious options. This rivalry is one which perpetuates today, but is now more of a pastime of friendly debate as to which is the better city. They both have their strengths – in my eyes, Melbourne’s wins for their cultural calendar and food scene, whilst Sydney takes the cake for beaches and iconic sites.
Now you can’t go to Sydney without making a beeline straight to Circular Quay, which sits at the foot of the city and is a commuter hub with the main ferry terminus positioned here. But notably, this is where you’ll be able to see the most iconic sights of Sydney. the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. The Sydney Harbour Bridge was built in the 1930s and transformed Sydney’s landscape and culture, providing new ease of access between the central business district and the northern beaches. At the time it was the largest arched bridge in the world. Today it features on televisions both in Australia and worldwide as the site of spectacular fireworks on New Years Eve. French highwire artist Philippe Petit, once illegally walked a wire between the two pyres here, as a warm up for his performance at the World Trade Centre. But tourists can now traverse it on foot along the eastern side or even legally scale the arch itself by booking a ‘Bridge Climb’.
Some 50 years after the Harbour Bridge, the Sydney Opera House was built. Any architecture buff would love this building, designed by Danish architect Jørn Utzon. He won a global competition calling for designs, with his unique vision of a shell structured roof. Although many liken these shells to sails, Utzon was actually inspired by the peeled segments of an orange. Unfortunately the construction was wrought with issues…the shells were difficult to engineer and the NSW government pushed for construction to start before the plans had been finalised. It ultimately went 14 times over the estimated budget, but today you could say it was worth every dollar of the $102 million invested. You cannot value such a symbol of Australia.
The Museum of Contemporary Art (or MCA) is also located in the harbour and is worth a world class gallery exploring. Even if you’re not an art buff, entry is free and reflective of their desire to make art accessible to all. There is a focus on celebrating the work of living artists and showcasing the art of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islands – appropriate given the MCA building stands on land traditionally owned by the Gadigal people of Eora Nation.
The area sitting behind the MCA known as The Rocks, is the historic area of Sydney, being one of the earliest places of settlement. It was an unsavoury place at the time, attracting brothels, bootlegger bottle shops and opium dens. Today there’s a lot of charm to be found with cobblestone laneways and old sandstone buildings perched up against sheer rockfaces. You can also find an excellent market here on weekends with over 200 stalls offering artisanal wares and gourmet food.
On the other side of Circular Quay, lies the Royal Botanic Gardens. It’s a calming area to wander but I’d draw your attention to two features. The State of New South Wales Library is perched on the edge of the gardens and is the oldest library in Australia. The Mitchell Reading Room is easily the best spot with a glass ceiling and mid-century vibes. A more modern spot is The Calyx, which was built in 2017 to celebrate the 200th birthday of the Royal Botanic Gardens. The unique building is shaped to represent the whorl that protects the flower bud and is home to changing horticultural exhibitions, often featuring one of the largest vertical floral walls in the Southern Hemisphere.
In the heart of the city, lie two unmissable heritage buildings. The Queen Victoria Building, also known as the QVB, was built by the Government during a severe recession to give many unemployed craftsmen work. No detail is spared with mosaic tiling on the floors, stained glass windows and a domed ceiling. It also houses a mystery – there is a secret letter from Queen Elizabeth II to the citizens of Sydney, that’s not to be opened and read until the year 2085.
The Strand Arcade is just as elegant with more mosaic flooring, store signs hanging from cast iron lacework and timber framed storefronts. Browse the designer labels, stock up at two delicious chocolatiers and pause at Gumption by Coffee Alchemy before you head back out onto the city streets.
Amongst the bustle of the city, Hyde Park provides 16 hectres of quiet and reflection. It’s famed for its imposing avenue of figs trees, with the Archibald Fountain at its centre and views of the St Mary’s Cathedral at the northern end. The Anzac Memorial represents the collective grief for the loss of Australian lives in WWI. It is also an Art Deco marvel designed by architect, C. Bruce Deliit with partnership from sculptor, Rayner Hoff. The pink granite exterior belies a white marble interior, with the Hall of Silence at its contemplative heart. This room centers on a dramatic bronze sculpture called ‘Sacrifice’ depicting a young solider laid upon his shield. The room is crowned by a domed ceiling studded with 120,000 gold stars, one for each person from NSW that served during WWI.
Sydney is undoubtably known for its beaches and has plenty of coastline to offer. The Bondi to Coogee walk is the most well-trodden coastal walk, starting from the infamous Bondi Beach. Here you might spot some familiar faces around the lifeguard tower from the televised ‘Bondi Rescue’ series or just the happy sights and sounds of beachgoers enjoying one of the most famous beaches in the world. Before heading on your way, explore beyond the main crescent of sand to the North Bondi Rocks… it’s a little more secluded and away from the crowds.
When you’re ready to go, pass the Bondi Icebergs and begin your walk along the dramatic cliff side trail. The path winds around the coast with rewarding views the entire way. Tamarama is the first stop, delivering a green park and beach complete with volleyball courts all in one perfect package. Between the crescent breach of Bronte and Clovelly, you’ll pass the strange and unexpected sight of the Waverley Cementary perching on the water’s edge. Clovelly itself is a strange beach, but perfect for those that don’t like sand, where the shores are replaced by a large concrete slab to dive off. The last stop before reaching Bronte, is Gordon’s Bay providing all the allure of a secret beach on a well trodden path, with a tiny patch of sand surround by high-walled cliffs.
Manly is a part of Sydney that feels far removed from the CBD and you do need to make a special effort to get there. But half the fun is the journey – use your Opal card to catch the public ferry from Circular Quay to Manly and enjoy the harbour views on the 30 minute trip. The Corso is lined with palm trees and chilled pubs, giving off a distinct holiday vibe. Just wander the streets and you’ll find plenty of trendy spots and good eats, like Rollers Bakehouse.
Another coastal walk well worth making, stretches from Manly to The Spit. Although counter-intuitive, it’s actually best to take the 25 minute bus from Manly to The Spit and make your way back to Manly – this ensures you only have to do the 10km walk one way. The Spit Bridge is your literal starting point and if you’re lucky, you might see the drawbridge split in two to allow tall ships to pass through. The walk itself is varied and you’ll experience bush tracks, boardwalks and sandy paths amidst native flora and beautiful bays. There are so many rewards along the way as your pass secluded beaches (bring your swimming gear on a warm day) and sweeping views of the water sprinkled with plenty of leisure boats. It’s also awash with history. There are some spots where you can see Aboriginal rock carvings and the Arabanoo Lookout is named after an Aboriginal man kidnapped by the British settlers, to act as a translator between the two groups.
Generally I’ll choose something new spot over a place I’ve already visited, but one spot I can’t miss anytime I’m in Sydney is The Baxter Inn. This whisky bar is tucked away down a dark alley, down a dodgy stairwell into an underground cellar… the best ones are. But once inside, you’ll feel like you’ve teleported back to a speakeasy in Prohibition – walls of liquor (mostly whiskey) are accessed by sliding stepladders by sharp looking staff as jazzy tunes fill the space. Pick your own poison or take the bartender’s recommendation – this is the place that introduced me to one of my new favourite drinks, The Penicillin. If you’re keen to swap your whisky for gin, not too far away is The Barber Shop. It’s found once passing through a fully functioning barbershop, with the only giveaway likely to be the security guard standing outside.
Another favourite spot is Cho Cho San, a modern Japanese restaurant in Potts Point whose space has won awards for evoking the Japanese spirit without relying on iconography. The bar acts as the focal point (inspired by the izakaya) and the entire backlit ceiling (reminiscent of a shoji screen) provides a warming, invisible light source. Menu highlights include the crispy eggplant skewers with miso caramel and sesame seeds and the Japanese bolognaise (udon noodles with pork and ginger). And please don’t leave without trying the black sesame ice cream mochi.
We haven’t yet touched on brunch, a necessary meal of the day for any Australian. The Grounds of Alexandria is a Sydneyside magnet and community, with a vast space in a seemingly industrial area providing a cafe, restaurant, bar, coffee roastery, bakery, florist, market and farm. With fairy lights, flowers, a lemonade cart and seasonal foods on offer, you’d never know it was a transformed pie factory. They also own The Grounds of the City which is more conveniently located on George St. This spot is tailored to the city worker and has what I can only call, a Harry Potter-esque vibe.
Before you leave Alexandria, stop by Mecca‘s headquarters where they ‘invite people to eat and drink themselves silly whilst they roast coffee out back’. Transparency in the coffee industry and a respect for the many hands that touched the coffee beans before them is a real driving force for this cafe. And for one of the coolest place to get your morning coffee, there is nowhere better than the Paramount Coffee Project in Surrey Hills. The space was once the home of Paramount Pictures, with the transformation into trendy cafe still leaving the raw edges and historical fabric visible.
Need somewhere to stay? The Paramount House is also a boutique hotel, so if you want to stick close to the dining options within Surrey Hills, this is it. Another stylish place to sleep in Sydney is the Ovolo Wooloomooloo. The historical hanger building positioned on the blue fingerwharf of Wooloomooloo has been transformed by contemporary design and a colourful palate of decor. Not to mention all the freebie inclusions, so yes you can touch that mini bar and tuck into the snacks!
