There’s a little piece of this world that took my unsuspecting heart by surprise. Something about being surrounded by the imposing red, pink and white cliffs of Zion feels close to magic.
Zion National Park is located in Southern Utah, near the border of Nevada. The experience of being there hits you from the drive in. The Zion-Mt Carmel Highway is an incredibly scenic drive, with views to ‘wow’ over at every turn. This is not a road that just gets you from A to B – we drove it once out of necessity, and a second, for the impression it made on us the first time.
At some point you will reach the long, dark tunnel that burrows through the mountains for 1.6km. It was constructed in the 1930s and recognised to be an engineering feat for the time, overcoming problems that hadn’t been tackled before. The area was previously known to the native Indians as ‘loogoon’, meaning ‘come out the way you came in’ – so this tunnel literally made eastern Zion easily accessible for the first time. It’s unnerving to drive through – you’re immediately swallowed by the darkness of the inner mountain and steering through the narrow tunnel feels relentlessly long. At times, traffic is restricted to one-way when a larger vehicle needs to pass through the tunnel and the wait when this occurs is a reminder of the accessibility it provides to the remote area.
Utah is historically Mormon territory, largely chosen for it’s arid landscape and a potential place to live without harassment. It is one of the least densely populated states in the USA, but in more recent times Utah has gained attention for its wealth of national parks and natural beauty. Positioned right at the base of Zion National Park, Springdale is an ideal base for explorers. The views aren’t exclusive to the national park itself, here you’ll wake up to the majesty of the surrounding cliffs enclosing the town.
Our short time in Zion was dominated by two impressive hikes – Angel’s Landing and the Zion Narrows. Angel’s Landing was named after early explorers observed that ‘only an angel could land on it’. Depart the shuttle at The Grotto and follow the West Rim Trail – this is the part that’s supposed to ease you into what’s ahead. Enjoy your last few moments of respite in the cool Refrigerator Canyon, where the sun is permanently blocked out, because you will shortly emerge at Walter’s Wiggles. These are named for the 21 switchbacks in full exposure to the heat, but the positive is that they make you gain elevation quickly.
Once past these, you’ll find yourself at Scout’s Lookout. This is a beautiful viewpoint and the place to either turn back if you’re nervous or rest before taking on the summit of Angel’s Landing. The last kilometre involves scrambling along a narrow ridge up the spine of the mountain. There are sheer drops of 365 metres either side, so you will want to get a good grip on the chains provided. If you love a bit of adventure this will give you a total thrill, but do be mindful that people have died attempting it and there is a small risk involved.
My one word of advice would be to start early, as a mid afternoon start for us culminated in an influx of other hikers sharing the path. When you’re squeezing past each other with vertical plunges, you want to avoid two way traffic as much as possible. I unfortunately made the call to turn back about halfway up the spine purely due to crowding. It feels like a mission incomplete, so there is no doubt I’ll be back to tackle it again one day at the crack of dawn.
For a different kind of thrill, you’ll love the Zion Narrows. This beautiful slot canyon is truly quite narrow (sometimes only 10 metres wide), and the only way to explore it is to get your feet wet. Wade up the Virgin River, wedged between the soaring Navajo sandstone, and take it all in. Exploring like this is an experience like no other and with every bend, you’ll wonder what’s around the next. It’s the kind of place that makes you wonder how humans ever found it in the first place. I felt incredibly lucky to be there.
Two practical tips for the Narrows… Don’t forget to check the weather before you leave, as the canyon is susceptible to flash flooding. And do get your gear the day before, so you’re ready to get on the first shuttle in the morning. We hired boots, neoprene socks and a walking stick from Zion Outfitters for $24 USD and they were worth every cent for the comfort and support they provided.
Utah truly lived up to its promise of ‘Life Elevated’. Zion NP seasoned me with a zest for national parks and made me dream of the quintessential American childhood filled with summer camps and road trips. Let’s see how many more I can get to as an Australian adult…
