Ella is set in the hill country of Sri Lanka, where the higher altitude means the air is noticeably cooler and offers immediate respite from the typical humidity. The lush green surrounds are made for hiking, so this is the ultimate place to put your sneakers on and explore as far as you can.
Our first morning took us to the top of Little Adam’s Peak, which we had heard described as a low effort, high reward hike. The majority of the path through the tea plantations to the pinnacle was definitely leisurely, but don’t make the mistake of stopping there. Following the steep mountain ridge along to the eastern-most peak will involve a little more scrambling, but the views are more spectacular and you might even be lucky enough to have the viewpoint to yourself.
Stop for a refreshment and admire the same peak from the yellow-umbrelled deck of 98 Acres, a luxury eco-resort, easily found on your route down. From here, you can continue your walk cross-country through a grassy dirt track and past local homes towards the Demodara Nine Arch Bridge. The British planned its construction, but progress was halted during WWII when steel resources were otherwise diverted. This architectural marvel came into prominence after a local persisted with the project using only stones, brick and cement.
Close the loop by following the train tracks back into Ella town for about 45 minutes. The track is functional so keep an eye out for passing trains and wave at the passengers hanging out the doors and windows. The town is no doubt built for tourists these days and authenticity can be hard to find, but the main street is full of conveniences you’ll welcome. Cafe Chill is clearly a favourite and for good reason. Head to the top deck to find an impressive wave-like bamboo ceiling and order yourself a lamprais – a parcel of rice and curry cooked in a banana leaf.
Most hikes in Sri Lanka are not well sign posted, but sometimes this is half the fun. Many are drawn to Ella Rock, which looms over the landscape and promises breathtaking views. The path to Ella Rock is completely unmarked, but with a bit of adventurous spirit and a little preparation prior, I promise you’ll make it. Do be cautious of who you ask for directions – some locals will misguide you, so that you get lost and will welcome a paid guide. We found the directions from Atlas and Boots and this well-wisher helpful in guiding us through the mixed terrains of train tracks, tea plantations, long grass and uphill scrambling. It is 4 hours return from the town but you will be rewarded with an amphitheater of green mountains ranges at the top and a feeling of accomplishment.
An early morning wake up is all worth it to visit the Halpewatte Tea Factory, where the passionate guides will leave you with such an appreciation for where your cup of tea comes from. Be there for the first tour of the day to ensure you see the full production line up and running. The low temperature and high altitude around Ella is perfect for tea growing, and leaves are often picked by hand due to the steep hills and ability to select specific parts of the bush. The pickers are paid by the kilo and are required to select only the top leaves exposed to the sun for black tea. If too many leaves from the bottom of the bush are picked, the tea will be poor quality and not fetch a good price at the Colombo Tea Auctions. The pickers can also separate out the bud, which is the most valuable part, which is full of antioxidants and makes what is known as white tea.
With a new appreciation of the tea picking and production process, you will want to head to Lipton’s Seat near Haputale. This is the viewpoint where Sir Thomas Lipton used to overlook his estates. Before the afternoon mists roll in, the 360 degree views will allow you to see five provinces of Sri Lanka at once. The journey up the winding roads are truly stunning, you’ll catch glimpses of village life and an occasional wave from the Tamil tea pickers. With more time up our sleeves, it would have been an experience to walk down from the top through the fields.
The only thing that pulled us away from Lipton’s seat was the promise of Diyaluma Falls. The top of the falls are the most impressive, so you’ll want to start at Poonagala Road and make the 30 min trek downhill. The start is hard to find, you’ll need to climb over what looks like private fencing but from there your path should be fairly clear. You’ll arrive at a series of cascading natural infinity pools which drop off into sheer waterfalls. It’s refreshing to not be restricted by safety barriers at the edges and swimming restrictions, but this does mean using your own judgement. If you’re daring you can swim to the edge and peer over, but be careful!
After action-packed days, there is nothing better than sitting on your balcony with a strong cup of Ceylon tea. As night sets, watch the blue shadows of the mountains disappear with the light and the bright flashes of the fireflies coming to life.
