The Mornington Peninsula has the best parts of a Victorian day trip, all bundled up into the one convenient archipelago. Within 90 minutes drive of Melbourne, you’ll find yourself spoilt for choice with a scattering of seaside towns, coastal walks and cool climate wineries.
At the very tip of the Peninsula, lies Fort Nepean, a defensive military fortress built in the 1870s and in use until the 1940s. Park at Gunner’s Cottage, the furthest point you can take your car and navigate the last 3.5 kilometres on foot. This is a walk guaranteed to deliver on both natural beauty and dramatic history. The fort played an important role in Australian defence, protecting the narrow stretch of water where the ocean meets Port Phillip Bay. Shots were only fired twice in true military aggression, but both are said to be the first Allied shots of both World War I and World War II. In the instance of WWI, a German ship was attempting to leave Port Phillip Bay after war had been declared. The base was ordered to ‘stop her or sink her’ and after a warning shot, the crew was arrested on shore. WWII was more a case of mistaken identity, and shots were actually fired at an Australian ship that failed to identify itself as it entered the bay.
Don’t go off track as you admire the bluest of blue waters, there are signs warning of unexploded bombs. Instead, spend your hours exploring an incredible maze of tunnels, ammunition stores, bomb proof bunkers and barracks to your heart’s desire. The path to Fort Nepean also passes by Cheviot Beach, best known as the place where Harold Holt went missing in 1967. Harold Holt was an Australian Prime Minister who went for a swim there in rough conditions, and disappeared from view suddenly. As his body was never found, he was declared dead in absentia and this led to a range of conspiracy theories. The most outlandish being that he was a Chinese spy, that he’d actually faked his own death and was taken by submarine to Beijing. In a case of true Australian irony, we now have a swimming pool named after him.
Another great trail is the Cape Schanck Boardwalk. Follow the wooden planked path from the basalt cliff tops of Cape Schanck down to Pebble Beach, taking in the views along the way. At the bottom of the boardwalk, make sure to venture onto the shore and clamber over the rocks on the right hand side of the cove. If you don’t, you’ll miss out on the final act, the reveal of the towering Pulpit Rock with the waves crashing over the rockpools of the Devil’s Desk.
Stop by the Cape Schanck Lighthouse on your way back, which was built in 1859 to combat the increasing number of shipwrecks resulting from developing trade. It’s trademark light signal was to communicate the letter ‘N’ of the Morse code, being a long flash followed by a quick one.
If you’ve had enough of walking and are ready to do some eating – the Peninsula has plenty to put on the table. Red Gum BBQ is a hidden gem, a converted warehouse tucked behind a petrol station, serving up slow cooked Southern American style meats and craft beers. Think beef brisket, pork ribs, buffalo wings, mac and cheese and corn bread.
Foxey’s Hangout is also a great casual stop for lunch, with wine tastings on offer and simple dishes to enjoy either indoors or on their quaint deck overlooking the vineyards. Opt for the chef’s menu, a light lunch comprising of a selection of shared plates for $40 per person.
Some of your big names are well worth a visit too. Port Phillip Estate is a dark, modern and imposing building named for the glimpse of Phillip Island visible from the property. As a hatted restaurant, it’s definitely on the formal side, but you can sit on their amazing deck with a bottle of wine.
The Epicurean is a versatile stop with the entrance housing a little cafe and a surprisingly large restaurant at the back. It’s an inviting space for lunch, with the rustic charm of the recycled wharf beams and open fireplaces, combined with an impressive glass ceiling. Alternatively a coffee with Little Rebel beans paired with baked treats from Johnny Ripe is equally hard to turn down.
I actually hesitate to share this piece, as there is so much more to be discovered. My ‘to do’ list on the Peninsula is long and growing… so this just means there will be another coming!
