The Curious Report: Guide To The Grampians

Where else in the world could you find yourself driving a car down a red dusty road behind a pair of sprinting emus? The Grampians offers wild surprises at every turn – whether it’s an incredible view from the top of a mountain peak, an inviting natural swimming hole, the awe of an ancient Indigenous rock art site, or some beloved Australian wildlife.

This is a bushwalker’s paradise and one of my favourite Victorian getaways. Located 3.5 hrs from Melbourne, Halls Gap is a town set at the foot of the Grampians and is a perfect base for exploring. It’s also very picturesque, with a small creek running through the centre of the village conveniences.

SEE + DO
MacKenzie Falls

MacKenzie Falls is a well known attraction within the Grampians and for good reason – it’s one of those waterfalls that you could describe as ‘thundering’. There is a viewing platform 1km from the car park which gives a great view of the falls from above, but the short, steep stars down to the base are well worth it. From up close you’ll get to feel the cool spray on your face and bunny hop on the rocks across the water. It’s worth noting there have been a few drownings here, so swimming is not permitted.

Fish Falls

Don’t make the mistake of turning back after McKenzie Falls, there is plenty more to enjoy just a little further down the trail. Between the two waterfalls, there are steel platformed pathways built strategically into the rocks, allowing you to cross the waterways effortlessly. It’s a lot of fun. The waterfall itself is pretty beautiful, with water cascading down a few layers of terraced rocks totalling 60 metres. Bring your bathers as this is a great place for a swim if you can bare the extra cold water!

The Pinnacle

If you are going to do one hike whilst in The Grampians, this is the popular choice. It’s a great one for families as the terrain is really varied and keeps it interesting the whole way, without being overly difficult. I would have been in my early teens the first time I did this with my parents and it was one of the holiday memories that stuck! As an adult, I was keen to revisit and it was just as exciting as the first time. Starting at The Wonderland carpark, you can expect to take 2-3 hours return depending on your pace. Highlights will include passing through the impressive gorge named the ‘Grand Canyon’ and the incredibly narrow rock passage known as ‘Silent Street’. The Pinnacle itself sits at 720m above sea level, so you can be assured you’ll be rewarded with a great view at the top too. You can also start at the Sundial car park for a shorter 45 minute walk, but you miss the majesty of the Grand Canyon, so I personally don’t recommend it.

Hollow Mountain

Hollow Mountain is located in the northern part of the Grampians, so you’ll see the landscape change from the greener, more central Grampians. This was by far my favourite hike in the Grampians for both the views and the challenge. It’s completely do-able by the average hiker, but it’s worth noting that it’s classified as a Grade 4 hike. We did see a few have to turn back at the point where rock scrambling turns into almost rock climbing, including a couple who were carrying kids on their backs. A feeling of adventure sets in early, realised at the moment the little yellow arrow points directly up a huge boulder. After the initial rock scramble up, you’ll find yourself on a large slab of sandstone that leads all the way to the summit. Along the way you’ll admire seasonal rock pools (post rainfall), wind carved caves and endless views over My Stapylton Amphitheatre and the Wimmeria Plains. There are three caves to explore at the top, but some of them are difficult to spot, so keep a careful eye out for them.

You can also detour about 700m to see the Gulgurn Manja Shelter on your way back. This Aboriginal site features hand prints of young indigenous people, imprinted on the rock face with ochre.

Mount Abrupt

We had time for one more big hike and couldn’t decide amongst a few of the ‘mounts’ in The Grampians, but ultimately we were very happy with our choice to climb Mount Abrupt. As we drove South towards Dunkeld, Mount Abrupt loomed large and dramatically before us. At 827 metres high, you could expect a relentless uphill climb to the summit, although it is an otherwise uncomplicated hike. Don’t worry though, there are many beautiful vantage points on your way up, so you’ll have plenty of excuses to ‘catch your breath’. Keep an eye out for the big birds of prey here too – the area is known for wedge-tailed eagles and peregrine falcon spottings.

Venus Baths

It’s a short, sweet 1km walk from behind the Botanical Gardens to the Venus Baths – nothing too strenuous. Here there are plenty of natural shallow pools and a couple of deeper pools to dip in and enjoy. Some of the rocks are a bit slippery so be careful you don’t end up in the water involuntarily, but for the bathers, these can also be used as little waterslides. Given how accessible it is, you can expect there to be a number of people enjoying them with you unless you go early or late in the day. We arrived around 5.30pm to a number of happy bathers, but by dinner time it had cleared out and we had the place to ourselves. We only had to share with a onlooking kookaburra!

Beehive Falls

Best explored after some rainfall to ensure you actually get to see them, Beehive Falls is known as one of the most beautiful in The Grampians. It’s largely a gentle, flat walk with only a short uphill trek as you get close. I got Jurassic Park vibes here with lush greenery and ferns around the base of the falls and climbing up like a vertical garden.

Boroka Lookout + Reeds Lookout + The Balconies

There are a number of popular lookouts within The Grampians too, however I wouldn’t say any of these were highlights for me. Boroka Lookout has a lovely view over Lake Bellfield, but it was shrouded in fog when we visited, so pick your moment right. Also it’s worth noting that to get those ‘insta perfect shots’ you see everywhere, you actually need to climb over a barrier and sit on an unprotected ledge. I’m always one to go a little bit further than the well trodden path, but there have been a number of deaths here and you can see the risk easily, so it’s really not worth it.

The Balconies + Reeds Lookout are close together, so you’d check both off at the same time. For me, there are more impressive views, but you have to work for them. I guess the thing is, at these viewpoints, you can practically drive up to them.

EAT + DRINK
Flame Brothers

Centrally located in Halls Gap village and positioned alongside the Stoney Creek river, this is one of the trendier spots for dinner. It’s a little unusual to see a smoker out here, but Flame Brothers specialises in Texas style BBQ.Try to get a seat outside on a warm day so you can admire the natural scenery and see the smoker in action, billowing out puffs of atmospheric smoke. We ordered the BBQ sharing platter and it was both filling and delicious, so a definite win.

Paper Scissors Rock Co

The Grampians have their very own craft brewery after three mates noticed that, unlike other tourist towns, Halls Gap has nothing within a 2 hour radius. They couldn’t agree on a name for the brewery, so decided to play a game of Paper Scissors Rock to decide it, which ended up being their accidental name. They have their regular beers available all year round (such as the ‘Normal Beer’ and ‘Dark Vader’) and then a few taps that rotate seasonally. Well worth popping in for an end of day beer or tasting paddle.

Barney’s Bar + Bistro

I don’t think this place is on the tourist trail, but that’s exactly what I liked about it. Barney’s is actually set up within an old shearing shed in Pomonal, and alongside the friendly staff, set a rustic and welcoming atmosphere. They are also supportive of the local community, with the wine list largely featuring local production.

Grampian’s Estate

The Grampian’s Estate is located on the Western Highway on the road to Halls Gap. It’s an easy and worthwhile stop on the way in for a wine tasting on their scenic deck. Grampians Estate are a newer winery who first planted their vines in 1989, but have been awarded many accolades from James Halliday in their 30ish years.

Best’s Great Western

There are only 11 wineries on the official Grampians wine trail, but the area is home to some of Australia’s oldest vines. Henry Best planted his vines in the 1860s, during the gold rush, which are now an important piece of Australian wine history. The winery has been owned by only two families, with five generations of The Thompsons taking custodianship since 1920. Try the cellar door wine offering set up in the original stables, then explore the subterranean cellars on a self-guided tour after your tasting.

Seppelt Wines Great Western

Seppelt is noted for their contribution to the winery world, with the uniquely Australian creation of Sparkling Shiraz. We loved their welcoming cellar door and affordable wine list, definitely the place to stock up on your way home. Seppelts was also founded in the 1860s, by Joseph Best. At the time, he commissioned local gold miners to tunnel underground cellars in the soft granite to store the wines at optimal temperatures. Initially only 9 metres deep, they were extended over 60 years and are now a 3km maze of tunnels known as ‘The Drives’. This is the largest underground cellaring system in Australia, with the capacity to store 3 million bottles of wine. You can see these yourself, with tours running 5 times a day ($15).

Want to explore more in Victoria?
If you enjoy hiking, check out Wilson’s Prom, Dandenong Ranges or even Mornington Peninsula.
There are also great walks in Melbourne, like the Fairfield to CBD Walk.
For more exploring of regional Victoria, why don’t you check out historic Castlemaine or Echuca?

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