The hippie origins of Byron Bay have been given a good buff – these days it’s a shinier, fancier version of its former self. The influx of mass tourism surely makes a local shudder, but there is no doubt there is still many a gem to treasure.
On arrival, it makes perfect sense to head straight for the water and the Cape Bryon Walking Track is a quintessential Byron Bay experience. Fill your tummy with a delicious acai bowl at The Top Shop and then get going. The 10km trail starts at the bottom end of Clarkes Beach where you’ll cross sand and clamber over wave battered rocks until you get to your first point, The Fishman’s Lookout. This rocky outlook will require you to wade through knee deep water before you can scale the steps and take in the view. It is the best spot to look out over The Pass and watch all the surfers patiently waiting out in the water to catch the next wave.
Continue along the coastal trail towards Wategos Beach. This pretty little beach is lined with pandanus palms and sits happily beneath a line of million dollar properties. Besides the beach itself, the star of Wategos is Raes. The beautiful bones of this white villa were constructed in the 1960s and the surrounding gardens rumoured to have been designed by Salvador Dali. With only 7 rooms starting at $700 a night, a stay here will remain a dream for a while, but a stop at their dining room or bar is definitely more accessible.
Keep heading north and east, and don’t forget to make the small detour to the Most Easterly Point of Mainland Australia. It’s not a remarkable viewpoint, but from now on, you can legitimately make the claim. Keep going and eventually you’ll reach the Cape Byron Lighthouse. From this high point you can take in the entire bay and may even spot some whales at the right time of the year. Transcribed above the entrance you’ll see Latin phrase ‘olim periculum-nunc salus‘ which means ‘once a danger now safe‘. Peek inside the lighthouse itself to read a little about what it was like to be a lighthouse keeper, an important role that became unnecessary in 1989 with inevitable automation. Before heading back down, take in the rolling waves stretching the length of Tallows Beach.
Whilst the first vision your mind might summon of Byron Bay is more likely to be a beach than a rainforest, the Nightcap National Park will undoubtably be a trip highlight. From Byron Bay you’ll end up taking the Coolamon Scenic Drive through the hinterland with incredible scenic views. Stop at Doma Cafe in the township of Federal on the way in – a rustic cafe offering Japanese-Australian fusion food. The fusion is genuine with the owners Takayuki Kuramoto & Takashi Yaguchi hailing from Japan originally. This foreign influence is the last thing you would expect out in such a remote area, but it’s a welcome surprise. Choose anything from a good old egg and bacon roll to breakfast sushi rolls – you can’t go wrong.
The allure of Minyon Falls is what pulls most visitors to Nightcap National Park. The rhyolite cliffs once used to be part of the Tweed Volcano, and on a rainy day, the falls are thundering and the heights are incredible. Whilst the top of the falls are easily accessed and can be viewed from a platform only metres from the carpark, there is a greater adventure to be had! Don’t forget to bring a day pack full of water, snacks and waterproof gear to ensure you’re prepared to take this on. The Minyon Falls Loop starts from the viewpoint and traces the cliff tops before a water crossing with stepping stones makes it possible to traverse Repentance Creek. And from someone that had an unfortunate surprise – watch out for the leeches!
You can also shortcut the full loop by starting at Minyon Grass and following this trail to the base of the falls – it’s still a decent hike (3-4 hours as opposed to 4-5 hours). From here you’ll descend straight into subtropical rainforest and it just gets greener and more mysterious as you go. You’ll know you’re getting close when you hit the river, but the last short stretch does take the longest. You’ll clamber up boulders and there are parts where it’s hard to tell where the actual trail is… in these cases you might be helped by a little orange trail marker. The challenge is worth the reward – a natural swimming hole at the base and a powerful spray from the falls. Whether you swim or not, you’ll leave wet and a bit disheveled, but definitely with a smile.
For a smaller waterfall adventure, Killen Falls is only 30 minutes drive from Byron Bay. Follow the dirt walking track down to the base of Emigrant Creek, then hip-hop from rock to rock along the riverbed until you reach the falls that drop 10 metres into a shallow pool below. It was a wet, rainy day but we saw one or two keen swimmers and it looked like it would be worth packing some swimmers on a hot one.
Now onto the food. For the brunch lover, start your day right at Folk Byron Bay. Order a top notch coffee served in super kitsch ceramics and enjoy a vegan brekkie you won’t even know is vegan. A playlist spouting good tunes alongside the mellow vibes inside the kiosk will make you feel like you’ve teleported back to the 70s. Relax, this is what mornings in Bryon Bay are all about.
If you have some time up your sleeve, you could venture out to Bangalow to explore the little township alongside a delicious brekkie. The owners of Folk have a second cafe out there called Woods Bangalow. There are also lots of nice gift shops to pop in and out of, enough to warrant a small whinge from my boyfriend, so you’ll be sure to find something unique to take home.
Every recommendation passed on by friends made mention of The Farm, so it goes without saying that this recommendation is passed on again. This 80 acre working farm aims to share the first-hand experience of how food is grown, whilst supplying the paddock-to-plate dining on offer. Any full grown adult will find some child-like delights here like patting the horses from neighbouring Zephr Horses or seeing the pigs, cows and chickens. The highlight was being welcomed to collect the macadamias that have dropped from the trees, with tools waiting on wooden benches for you to crack them open and eat on the spot.
The Byron Bay Arts and Industrial Estate sounded quite promising and maybe we’re missing something, but it was definitely more industrial than creative. Stone & Wood seem to have a cult following and you can visit their flagship which is homed here and the most obvious drawcard. A tasting paddle lets you choose 5 beers for $20 and includes offerings like the ‘resilience beer’, with proceeds going to bushfire relief, and the ‘mango lasses’, an exotic sounding mango and toasted coconut sour beer.
The high ceilinged, relaxed Morrocan vibes of the Mez Club make this the perfect spot to transition from day nature adventures to nighttime culinary adventures. If you can get there, happy hour (5-6pm) brings a small selection of deliciously inexpensive cocktails. Tried and tested by this margarita aficionado was the Mango Kombucha Margarita. The verdict – go for several.
As the sun goes down, it’s time to get some dinner in town. Bang Bang is incredibly popular hot spot, so do book ahead, even on a weeknight. The queue out the front is not for walk ins, it’s for reservations, so be warned! Good choices were made leaving the south-asian food selection to the chefs with the $55 Bang-quet accompanied by a Harvest Moon (lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf infused gin with elderflower and watermelon). The Beach is also a great spot, with unbeatable ocean views from this Hampton style restaurant specialising in seafood and Italian dishes. Tried and tested includes the wood grilled Moreton Bay bug with burnt butter and soft herbs and the Orecchiette with garlic, chilli and smoked eel. Delicious!
And if you want to stay somewhere amazing whilst you’re here, the Byron at Byron is pretty swish. A work trip brought me to this haven where the outdoors becomes a natural extension of the indoors. Brekkie is held on an open deck overlooking a wall of lush palm trees, where slowly rotating ceiling fans deliver a breeze to those enjoying their morning coffee.
Byron Bay might be looking a little more ‘monied’ these days, but avoid peak season crowds and it’s still very well worth a trip. You’ll know what you’re in for as soon as you pass the sign welcoming you to Byron Bay and reminding you to ‘cheer up, slow down and chill out’.
