Take the time to venture West, where the less trodden roads of Tasmania will unfold a tapestry of untamed wilderness. They don’t call this the ‘edge of the world’ for nothing – the peace and quiet will sink into your bones and soothe your soul. Given it was a little out of the way, we almost didn’t put Strahan and it’s surrounds on our itinerary, but we’re glad we did. Road tripping here offered a completely different experience to the East Coast, and we felt it truly rounded out our first experience of Tasmania.
Montezuma Falls
Don’t miss seeing Tasmania’s tallest waterfall, Montezuma Falls, which cascades an incredible 104 metres. Although a decent walk at 7km return, it’s a flat, easy trail along an old tram track to the falls. This tram track used to service the mines in the area, with the waterfall being named after the Montezuma Mining Company that operated here. If you keep your eyes open, you’ll even spot a mine shaft entrance you can explore along the way.
However the highlight is undoubtably reaching the suspension bridge, from which you will get the best view of the waterfall. I won’t lie, this bridge unnerved me a bit and I don’t even have a fear of heights. It’s just wide enough for two feet, it wobbles, you can see the big drop beneath you and the railings are essentially wire. It’s absolutely safe, but definitely offers a bit of a thrill and makes this spot unforgettable.
Queenstown
It was very quiet when we rolled into Queenstown in the late afternoon, which just added to the atmosphere. It felt like we’d walked onto the set of an old Western film and I was half expecting some tumbleweed to blow by. Set against the looming backdrop of rugged mountains, this little frontier mining town is truly spectacular. It is the authentic thing, not set up for tourism, with limited food and accomodation options to offer. I’d suggest that it’s a place to pass through on your way to West Tasmania for it’s incredibly scenery, rather than stay for it’s liveliness.
Iron Blow Lookout + Horsetail Falls
On the way into Queenstown, you absolutely must take a small detour to drive up to the Iron Blow Lookout. Much of Tasmania is adorned by lush greenery, but here the mountains are contrastingly rocky and barren. A stunning drive through this haunting beautiful moonscape, devastated by the greeds of mining, will leave you in awe. You will soon arrive at the Iron Blow, an open cut mine, Lonely Planet accurately describes as a ‘wound’. Here you’ll have a birds eye view over the mine now filled with turquoise water, and brightly ringed by copper and yellow stained rock.
Along this same road, you will see a sign for Horsetail Falls. It’s a 1km walk along an impressive boardwalk clinging to the side of the mountain. I will manage your expectations though – it’s not the most impressive waterfall. It’s likely you’ll find find no water flowing at all, but you might have better luck after heavy rains than we did. We still appreciated this spot for the close up wander into the rugged moonscape terrain, so it’s worth stopping.
Strahan
Arriving at the most western tip of civilised Tasmania, you’ll find that Strahan exudes a profound quiet and sense of peace. Time seems to stand still in this little harbour town – I truly felt like I was on the edge of the world. It’s a little gloomy, but in an atmospheric way, and I recommend a quiet stroll along the maritime foreshore.
Strahan is known as the gateway to the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and cruises depart from here. I’ll share a little more on this in a moment. You can also see Australia’s longest running play here, The Ship that Never Was, about the last convict’s escape from nearby Sarah Island. With only one night, we didn’t see it ourselves, but it is known for being interactive and comedic.
The Coffee Shack
You wouldn’t expect to find good coffee in this remote little corner of Tasmania, but luck is on your side. In 2017, two sisters opened up The Coffee Shack in Strahan and have been caffeinating the little town and it’s visitors ever since. This Melburnian was very grateful. Located near the main wharf, it is the perfect spot to grab a quick takeaway coffee before boarding the Gordon River Cruise for the day ahead.
Gordon River Cruise
The reason most come to Strahan is to experience the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park. There are two cruise operators that depart daily – World Heritage Cruises and Gordon Giver Cruises. We found Gordon River Cruises to be an excellent choice, but I imagine either would be high standard. Despite the early start (meeting 8am for an 8.30am departure), this is when the Strahan is at its most atmospheric, with the water shrouded in mist.
The journey unfolds as the boat exits Macquarie Harbour through Hells Gates, a once treacherous stretch of water, marked by two light houses either side of the narrow channel. The name was given by the convicts of Sarah Island, where you’ll stop to do a guided tour. This was a penal colony that held some of the worst offenders in Tasmania and was notorious for its harsh, inescapable conditions. The guides were excellent story-tellers, bringing to life the historical significance of Sarah Island and the remnants of it’s dark past.
Another moment of real life learning was when we came across some circular pods in the middle of the ocean. It turns out that this is how salmon are farmed, and the high quality fish from Tasmania are in high demand as far as Japan. Although controversial for environmental reasons, beyond tourism, salmon farming is the industry that sustains the small Strahan community.
But the beauty of the day was quietly cruising through the pristine Tarkine wilderness. The ancient rainforests and mirror-like reflections of the winding Gordon River, served as the main thoroughfare for this scenic voyage. We were even lucky enough to spot some dolphins playing in the water, which just put the cherry on top of a breathtaking day.
Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill
After learning about the Huon Pines on your river cruise, you’ll be interested to visit the Morrison Huon Pine Sawmill. This family-owned business no longer operates commercially, but now offers public demonstrations and sales, usually around 3pm when cruises return. Huon Pines are among the oldest trees on Earth, with some over 3000 years old. Their wood is rich in oils, making it resistant to rot and insects, which made it valuable for shipbuilding. Because Huon Pines grow very slowly (only 1mm a year), they are now protected for sustainability. Although the sawmill doesn’t cut down Huon Pines anymore for conservation reasons, the Morrisons can salvage fallen trees, allowing you to buy Huon Pine souvenirs here.
Risby Cove
With only one meal to savor in this picturesque town, we looked for a spot that would add to our experience here. Our brief hunt led us to Risby Cove, a charming little waterfront restaurant, nestled at the north end of Macquarie Harbour. The reasonably priced four course menu on offer at the time included delicious Tasmanian oysters and scallops, which were nothing short of Tasmanian fresh. And to complement your meal, Risby Cover also offered half serves of matched wines. I found this to be the perfect way to try a few local wines, without getting too boozy. After we visited, they won the Australian Good Food Guide Readers’ Choice Regional Award, so the secret might be out!
Want to explore more of Tasmania?
Drive the beautiful East Coast, stopping at Bay of Fires and Freycinet Peninsula.
Or how about exploring Bruny Island, just off the coast of Hobart for a day?
