For some, Los Angeles is the gateway to the USA, a necessary stop before moving east to New York… but for others, it is the destination. I fell into the former category, only budgeting for a few days there upon landing in the States for the very first time. Expecting a tacky, traffic-clogged Tinseltown – I was prepared to hate Los Angeles. But I was too quick to judge and an unexpected like blossomed.
Los Angeles sprawls – what looks like a short distance on Google Maps turns out to be 40 minute walk. We were advised to hire a car, but the thought of battling traffic on the wrong side of the road and hunting for a park sounded like the opposite of a holiday. Uber saved us the stress and got us around quickly and cheaply, with West Hollywood (or WeHo) as our base. Which leads to my second tip – research, research, research. LA is a destination where you get out what you put in. A wander likely won’t reward, but having a sense of purpose and direction will uncover great things.
We were forewarned that Downtown LA (or DTLA) was sketchy. I’m sure there’s an element of truth to this, however by day, it was a vibrant kind of grungy. Start your day at The Broad, a contemporary art museum that only opened in 2015. The modern honeycomb exterior houses giant metallic balloon animals by Jeff Koons and the Infinity Room by Yayoi Kusama. This mirror and light fuelled experience is the draw card so make sure to reserve tickets for opening time a month in advance to ensure entry. Standing opposite The Broad is Franky Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall, a gleaming ship of curved steel worth setting your eyes upon.
Stop for lunch at the Grand Central Market, a bustling warehouse with neon signs, fresh fruit and variety of food vendors. The suggestively named Eggslut seems to be a popular choice, being the only with a queue. Make sure to check out the Art Deco entrance before you pop across the road to the Bradbury Building. The ordinary exterior deceptively hides a little pocket of the 1920s – a unique atrium criss crossed with ironwork staircases and exposed elevator shafts. But The Eastern is easily my favourite landmark, a turquoise Art Deco beacon, aptly knighted the ‘Jewel of Downtown’.
Whilst most cities might offer a beer paddle or wine flight, the health conscious city of LA swaps this for cold pressed juice. Verve Coffee DTLA serves 8 colourful flavours ranging from activated charcoal to green to sweet on a tasting paddle. The interiors here are reminiscent of a laboratory, softened by green vertical garden – the perfect spot to pause. Dark calls for dinner at Gracias Madre, an oasis with warm lighting and big windows opening up onto a olive tree covered courtyard. if it’s good enough for Beyoncé, it’s good enough for me. This carnivore didn’t even notice the Mexican fare was vegan. Highly recommended is the Purista Margarita and the trio of salsas.
Enjoy a delicious pastry or more substantial bread based breakfast at French eatery, Republique. Spare a thought for the interesting history of the space – the characteristic gothic building was built in 1928 by Charlie Chaplin. Spending a sun soaked day by the coast is a must in Los Angeles. Start at the Santa Monica and walk towards Venice Beach. Santa Monica boasts wide stretches of sand, an bustling pier and cute little beach bungalows that will likely remind you of every pensive moment in hit show, The O.C. This is the end to lay down your beach towel and book. Detour slightly to take in the appropriately binocular shaped Google building before heading down Abbot Kinney, a stylish boulevard where you will find The Butchers Daughter. Although I can’t vouch for the food, the nautical atmosphere provides the perfect spot to take a break from the heat and enjoy a cool drink. Venice Beach is where you want to be in the late afternoon to eve, with music blaring, buskers and eclectic stalls. Watch the sun set here as day two closes.
I’ve misjudged you LA, I’ll be back.
27 January 2018
Looking forward to future guides….love the photos