The Yarra River is a defining feature of Melbourne’s identity, starting up in the Yarra Ranges and flowing down to divide the north and south of the city. Many of our walking trails follow the river and for a full day adventure you can start in Fairfield and go all the way to Federation Square in the CBD.
Let’s start with logistics – this 16km walk is long enough to do one way, so I’d suggest parking near the Fairfield Boathouse and taking the train back from the city to complete your loop. The Fairfield Boathouse was established in 1908 by John St Clair who petitioned to build a refreshment house and boat shed on the land of the Yarra Bend Asylum. Rowing and canoeing was a popular gentleman’s sport back then, and the arrival of teahouses for socialising and boathouses to rent boats made it accessible for all. The boathouse suffered numerous floods over the years, but became what it was today, after it was rebuilt and restored by the Van De Sluys family in the 1980s. Much of the history has been preserved, and this is the perfect spot to have Devonshire tea and scones, or rent a boat to paddle out on the river.
For those who’d rather not spend a whole day hiking (or if you’d like to return another day), there is a smaller loop you enjoy in Yarra Bend Park. This is a great route, as you’ll see a few spots that you don’t pass on route to the city, simply due to them being on the other side of the river bank. The key turn off is at Dights Falls, where instead of heading towards the Collingwood Children’s Farm, you take a left towards Deep Rock. Deep Rock is one of the spots I like to pause. Often you’ll see dogs enjoying a splash in the water here, but back in the early 1900s this was actually a popular spot for swimming and for a good 40 years this was home to a swimming and lifesaving club. If you can imagine, in 1918, a world record setting dive was made here witnessed by an expectant crowd of 70,000 people.
You’ll also get to see the only other remaining boathouse of the original 7, with the Studley Park Boathouse being the ‘lesser known but just as charming’ counterpart of the Fairfield Boathouse. Cross over Kanes Bridge, a suspension bridge built in the 1930s, that connects Studley Park to Yarra Bend Park. It’s pretty sturdy but can sway a little in the wind. One of the last highlights as you’ll otherwise miss on the full day hike are the grey-headed flying foxes (fruit bats) that tend to hang out in the trees around Bellbird Park. There is a dedicated Flying Fox Viewing Platform, but you’ll likely pass under scores of them long before. They won’t bother you and it’s pretty incredible to see so many of them in one place.
Otherwise if you’re keen to do the full 16km route, pass the Fairfield Amphitheatre and head towards the Pipe Bridge, where you’ll connect with the Main Yarra Trail. You don’t need to cross the bridge, but it’s interesting to know that it was built to carry water from the Yan Yean Reservoir to the inner suburbs of Melbourne. The path will follow Merri Creek until you pass under the Eastern Freeway, arriving at Dights Falls. This is a small weir that took advantage of the natural volcanic rock barrier, to divert water to a now non-existent flour mill owned by John Dight. There is a platform to view the falls from, which actually doubles as a fishway. It slows the water so that the fish can get around the weir, swimming against the current and up the stream as they do naturally.
When you’re ready to move on, follow the 90 metre mural painted by Tom Civil in partnership with the Wurundjeri people, telling stories of the traditional owners of the land. Your next landmark is the Collingwood Children’s Farm, an urban farm that once fed the adjacent convent but now introduces the idea of agriculture to city children. Even without going in you’ll pass animals grazing in their paddocks and The Farm Cafe, a rustic al fresco café where you can pretend that you’re somewhere much more remote and enjoy some homely food. I just love the atmosphere of this spot and I think you will too. They also have excellent sausage rolls.
If you’d like to detour from your hike for a slice of history, you can jump off the trail and explore the Abbotsford Convent. The Convent was founded in 1873 with the mission of providing refuge and work for women in difficult circumstances. They may have been orphans, living in poverty or even considered to be in ‘moral danger’. The dormitories could house up to 400 people and many worked in the Magdalen Laundry to fund the food, shelter and education provided.
As one of the largest historical examples of institutional care, the Convent has a spot on the National Heritage List. There is no doubt that this was not a positive experience for many, and subsequently in 2004 there was an inquiry into the treatment of children there. However the beautiful buildings and grounds here have been so well preserved and restored, with the site since being transformed into an urban retreat and creative hub for Melburnians. Whilst you’re here, stop at Cam’s Kiosk, a casual restaurant that is sure to win you over with its cosy ambience and feeling of secrecy. Alternatively, stop by the Convent Bakery which makes old-fashioned bread by hand and bakes them in wood-fired ovens built in 1901.
One of the good things about urban hikes is that not only do you get to enjoy new scenery and get some exercise, there is never a shortage of fuel stops. Obviously you cannot stop at all of these in one day, but choose one or two along the way that take your fancy. At this point, you can either turn left at Gipps St and stop at Au79 for some brunch or you can cross the bridge into Andrews Reserve to continue your walk. Au79 is the chemical symbol for gold and the owners speak of wanting to uphold a gold standard. They did it. This immense café and roastery, transformed from an old car warehouse, is a memorable experience.
If you choose to keep going into Andrews Reserve, you’re only 2km away from some more excellent fuel stops. Along your travels you’ll likely spot some industrial looking buildings and those are likely to be the Carlton and United Breweries (Abbotsford Plant). You can do a tour of the brewery, which is an interesting insight into not just how beer is made, but Australian history and what it was like to be a CUB employee back in the day. You’ll hear about things like how the Clydesdale horses used to cart barrels of ale into the city pubs, chew on some incredibly bitter hops if you dare, and finish off with a tasting paddle in the Carlton Brewhouse. Whatever type of beer you prefer, the tour is worth doing once.
Once you’re past the industrial buildings, you will notice a staircase leading up from the path to what seems like large apartment complexes. At the base of these apartments are two great cafes, Kitty Burns and Frankie Says. Both have great coffee and outdoor spaces to sit in nature, but Kitty Burns is especially popular for it’s creative menu and award winning interiors by Biasol. The name behind Kitty Burns continues the legacy of two sisters (Kitty Minoque and Alma Burns) who liked to skip in the backstreets of Abbotsford. The iconic Skipping Girl sign which can also be seen around here, was drawn of the girls by their brother, becoming the winning design for Skipping Girl vinegar and the first animated neon sign in Australia.
Otherwise a little bit further round the river bend, you can exit the trail at Crown St to pop by Veneziano Coffee Roasters. For something different, try their Bond St Americano, which is a cold espresso drink mixed with sparkling water and blood orange. They also offer a Barista’s Breakfast, a flight including an espresso, milk and filter coffee.
After this point, you’re best to stay on the trail until you get to the city. As you pass Hawthorn, keep an eye on the east bank of the river where you’re bound to spot some pretty luxurious mansions complete with their own private jetties. Eventually you’ll pass Loys Paddock, and then the path becomes a wooden pontoon allowing you to walk directly over the river. Early on you’ll see the Burnley Boulders, a free training ground for rock climbers positioned under the Monash Freeway.
Along this final part of your walk, you’ll have the chance to admire numerous stately bridges, like the Church St Bridge and Morrell St Bridge. Between these two bridges, you might spot a rainbow sign spelling out ‘Our Magic Hour’ in the sky. I’ve always wondered what the story is behind this and some digging reveals that it is an art installation Ugo Rondinone brought to Australia by the MCA. Then some years later it turned up here, surprising Melburnians on their commutes. You’ll also pass sporting stadiums (like AAMI Park, Rod Laver Arena and the MCG) and no doubt you’ll see some rowing squads powering up the river or some cyclists whizzing by.
Eventually you’ll hit Birrarung Marr, a piece of riverside parkland that stretches until Federation Square. The name comes from the Wurundjeri people and means ‘river of mists’ and ‘riverbank’. At this point you can start to pat yourself on the back – you’ve made it. Rest your feet at a hotspot in the city or take the train from Flinders St back to Fairfield station to complete your loop.
So whether you choose to go all the way into the city or do the smaller loop locally, Yarra Bend Park is a great place to start your walk, with plenty of sights and bites along the way.
