The Dandenong Ranges is at its very best, when the weather is at it’s very worst. It’s the kind of place where the rain adds atmosphere – everything is just a little bit greener, the mist hangs low amongst the trees and woodfire smoke tinges the fresh mountain air.
At the very base of the mountain lies one of Melbourne’s most popular hikes. So popular, you will probably struggle to find a car park. The Kokoda Track Memorial Walk is more commonly known as the ‘1000 Steps‘ – although there is a slight exaggeration in this (or a bit of cheeky rounding) as there are actually only 770 steps. During WWII, Papua New Guinea became the battleground between the Japanese and Australian armies, so the walk commemorates the Australian solders (and their local guides) who died on the Kokoda Track. The trail in the Dandenong Ranges was chosen for its similarity to parts of the original Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea. It’s narrow and all up hill, but beautifully shaded and green. There’s no view at the top but once there, a plaque asks you to reflect on the courage of the men who fought on a steep trail of a similar width surrounded by humid, hostile jungle that concealed the enemy from view.
My favourite place in the ranges used to be a hidden secret, but there’s no doubt the secret is well and truly out now. Enter the gates at the Alfred Nicholas Gardens and follow the garden track down to the bottom of a steep downhill slope, where you’ll discover a shaded lake complete with ornamental bridges, trickling waterfalls and a wooden boathouse. When it’s raining (as it was at the time of these captures) this is a magical spot to be – the lake sparkles with each raindrop and the pitter patter sound on water is the ultimate relaxation. The gardens were named after Alfred Nicholas who purchased the land in 1929. He and his brother made their fortune after being the first to develop and patent an alternative to Aspirin, when WWI halted German supplies to Australia.
The Alfred Nicholas Gardens sits next to the broader Burnham Beeches estate, where the family also built a magnificent art deco mansion. It is now under the ownership of restaurateur Shannon Bennett (alongside his business partner Adam Garrison), who plan to restore and transform it into a luxury retreat. The first step has seen The Piggery Cafe come to life, named for the building’s former use as a pigsty, but believe me when I say you’ll be perfectly happy to eat here. Artisan breads are offered by the onsite Burnham Bakery, whilst a six acre vegetable garden supplies the cafe (as well as the famed Vue de Monde). A 500 tree trufferie has been planted, with plans for Australia’s longest chicken run and a 16 cow dairy also in play. Soon the old grain silos will also be transformed in a micro-brewery in partnership with Tasmania’s Moo Brew.
The nearby Grants Picnic Ground is tucked in the midst of the Sherbrooke Forest, where the ancient mountain ash trees tower over scattered picnic tables. The cafe used to sell bird seed and so once this spot teemed with crimson rosellas, king parrots and cockatoos happy to bravely nibble from your outstretched hands. Parks Victoria has since stopped this for their welfare, but whilst numbers have reduced, this is still a wonderful spot to easily spy some wildlife and have a picnic.
It’s tradition to have a Devonshire tea in the mountains and one of the most scenic spots (and a little bit off the tourist trail) is the Kalista Tea Room. This glass windowed art deco building is perched amongst the leafy treetops and serves a delicious scone with homemade jam and double cream. There are bird feeding troughs and perches level to the windows so if you come in the mid-morning, you’ll be sure to have company too.
A little further up the mountain, you’ll undoubtably pass the little township of Sassafras. Here you can delight in exploring the quaint types of shops that you won’t find in a commercial shopping centre. Tealeaves is a highlight, a small store cluttered with practical and novelty teapots as well as a large range of fine organic teas. Smits n Bits is a treasure trove tucked down a little cobblestone lane offering garden statues, tin signs, lamps, porcelain figurines, antiques and all sorts of curios. Sometimes on a weekend, you might be lucky enough to chance upon some live music or a fire pit for complimentary marshmallow roasting. For the inner kid in you, Sassafras Sweet Co is an old fashioned lolly shop where you just might find those nostalgic treats from your primary school tuck shop. If you actually have kids, Geppeto’s Workshop is the place to buy wooden toys, puppets, kaleidoscopes and puzzles. You won’t find many battery operated toys in here, they feel ‘the kids should make the sounds rather than the toy’. And if you dare to venture in, The Oracle is like something out of Harry Potter. Its dark shop front is crowded with candles, crystals and angel statues. I’m a skeptic, but step inside for a fortune if you’re so inclined.
The most iconic spot in Sassafras is Miss Marple’s Tearoom. Whilst I can’t say this is tried and tested, you can tell this is the most popular spot by the waiting crowd out the front. Expect floral curtains and tablecloths, gold framed Agatha Christie memorabilia and traditional English fare. For a completely different vibe, don’t miss the chance to relax on the wraparound deck of the King Henry Arts Cafe, positioned on the outskirts of Sassafras. Afterwards have a wander through their under-explored gardens or play a game of giant chess.
A little further up the mountain lies the township of Olinda, but a cosy looking Bavarian ski chalet might catch your eye on the way in. The Cuckoo is famed for its European style smorgasboard and Bavarian entertainment featuring yodelling, cow bell ringing and knee slapping. It’s also a place of infamous stories – its owner Willi Koeppen vanished after a night at the restaurant in 1976 and hasn’t been seen again. In more recent times, thieves struck the restaurant but accidentally ran off with a bag of bread rolls instead of the money. For something a little less kitsch, you could stop by Pie In The Sky for an award-winning Australian pie. They proudly claim to have won a total of 15 medals in the Great Aussie Meat Pie Competition. Otherwise keep going up the mountain towards the Pig & Whistle Tavern – an old English pub named for the tradition of whistling whilst moving kegs (known as ‘pigs’) to avoid suspicion that the brew was being sampled . You won’t go wrong here if you choose the pork belly and chocolate pudding.
If you find yourself at the Dandenong Ranges Botanic Gardens – it will be nothing short of a surprise. It’s hard to believe that there are 36 hectares of manicured gardens behind the entrance gates. At the higher points, you can see views of blue mountain shadows and from almost every point, there are trees of every colour to admire. Native plants feature and in spring the rhododendrons are particularly vibrant. If you have kids, it could be a fun challenge for them to hunt for the stones painted like ladybugs dotted around the gardens.
One of the most unique places to wander in the ranges, is William Rickett’s Sanctuary. There are 92 sculptures hidden throughout the trees, emerging from rocks, congregating in grottos and hidden beneath moss. Here, art and nature merge as one. Rickett was a sculptor whose works were inspired by his time spent in Central Australia with the Aboriginal people of Arrente and Pitjantjatjara. They physically feature in his sculptures, but beyond this, they also inspired his philosophy in appreciating and taking care of the earth. Whilst it’s not a standalone event, from the sanctuary, Olinda Falls is only a 4 minute drive away and the walk to see it is super short. The waterfall is admittedly only a small one, but given the effort isn’t huge, it is worth a look. You’ll easy cover off the trails to both the upper and lower falls, but the lower falls are the more impressive of the two.
It’s a breath of fresh air being up in the Dandenong Ranges (both literally and figuratively), so fill your lungs as much as you can before you drive back down the winding mountain roads to the city.
