A typical day trip from Melbourne might take you to the Dandenong Ranges, the Yarra Valley or even Daylesford. Castlemaine probably isn’t one of the first destinations that come to mind, but I have a feeling that might change in the near future. Something is brewing over there.
Castlemaine is an easy 90 minute drive north west of Melbourne and promises to surprise you upon arrival. Our travels were supposed to bring us to Bendigo, but a stopover turned into a full day. We popped into the Visitor Information Centre, residing in the Market Building, where an older lady caught us up in her passion for the town and highlighted some attractions we weren’t aware of. We have her to thank for such an unexpectedly engaging day. Advice aside, the Market Building is a landmark of Castlemaine and worth a look. Restored from the 1860s, the traditional exterior deceptively hides its wooden beamed ceiling painted in a decidedly modern aquamarine. This was just our first hint of the town’s progressive flavour.
Castlemaine was founded as a boomtown, as were most major towns located in the Victorian goldfields. Within a year of the first discovery in 1851, twenty five thousand diggers had flocked to the area, however the excitement did not last. The Woollen Mill played a pivotal role in Castlemaine’s new wave of manufacturing, after the initial gold rush ran dry. After a period of abandonment, The Mill was saved by the eye of a local couple, who have since managed to breathe new life into the historical site. The work involved would have been daunting – they suddenly had possession of 26,000 square metres with a variety of industrial buildings built over the past 140 years. Now it is a hub of creativity, nurturing a real sense of community and connection amongst its residents. The transformation is not yet complete, with new spaces still in development, but you should still visit now. It’s currently a little known draw card for Melbourne day trippers, reminiscent of the Abbotsford Convent, where you could easily lose a day. Believe me when I say it’s deserving of far more attention.
One of the first tenants was Das Koffeehaus, who dreamed of wafting coffee aromas from the tall 1920s red brick chimney. It really is a little piece of Vienna, transplanted into Regional Victoria. On a warm day, spend time sunning yourself on the terrace and enjoying a traditional wiener mélange and sachertorte. In the cooler months, defrost inside with nourishing Eastern European fare like goulash and wiener schnitzel. But food isn’t the only attraction at The Mill, the Vintage Bazaar is a treasure trove full of things you don’t really need. Next door, Platform No 5 up-cycles antique furniture to give them a second life and carry on their story. We found everything from a 19th century Austrian cheese press and a nostalgic ice cream cart to pottery and leather jackets. Needless to say, the charm and individuality of something found is a different kind of buyer’s satisfaction.
If the afternoon calls for some adult beverages, The Mill has both a brewery and winery on site. Stop by The Taproom for a craft beer (perhaps the oaty ‘Breakfast Beer’?) or save yourself the choice and try a tasting paddle for only $10. If you prefer the grape-variety, Boomtown Wines is a co-operative with the cellar door offering tastings of their small batch drops. Just make sure you don’t leave without visiting Oakwood Smallgoods and bringing home a paper wrapped package. Owned by a master butcher of German descent, the smoked meats and pork sausages are crafted with patience using traditional methods.
Across the road from The Mill, you will find the Castlemaine Botanical Gardens. This is the perfect place to get a dose of greenery and walk off your lunch. The colour palette in Autumn is particularly special, but it would be nice at any time of the year to throw a picnic rug down by the lake and watch the ducks. Art buffs would also enjoy a visit to the Castlemaine Art Museum which houses a selection of Australian artists. If you do visit, take a moment to consider yourself lucky as it almost closed in 2017 due to financial issues. Fortunately it was saved at the eleventh hour by an anonymous $250,000 donation.
With only a day spent in Castlemaine, there’s more I want to return for. I hear there are a few hatted restaurants around here…
