Ballarat is a city founded on the gold rush, one of the greatest the world has ever seen. The streets are lined with the profits of this, with grand Victorian buildings at every turn. The golden past of Ballarat casts light on a modern future for the third largest city in Victoria, with beautiful sights and delicious eats for today’s traveller. Located only 1.5 hours north-east of Melbourne, Ballarat is the perfect day trip or overnight getaway.
SEE + DO
Lydiard Street
In 1851, gold was discovered in Ballarat at a spot ironically named ‘Poverty Point’. The discovery attracted thousands of diggers in search of fortune, and within a few short years the population exceeded 40,000 people. Along with the arrivals, all the amenities desired by a civilised society were built. Lyrdiard Street is where a lot of the most beautiful heritage buildings still stand today, and is considered to be one of the best preserved Victorian streetscapes beyond England. Wander, take lots of photos, I know I couldn’t resist.
Lake Wendouree
They say Lake Wendouree is the jewel in Ballarat’s crown, which is a fair statement to make. There’s no better way to start the day than a brisk walk around the lake – the peaceful setting will immediately put you into relaxation mode. On your lap, you’ll pass historical boat houses, grand old trees and see many swans gliding on the water. You can expect it’ll take about an hour to do the entire 6km around the lake, and there are a few spots for coffee spots (like Pipers By The Lake) if desired.
It’s also a prime spot for both competitive and leisurely water activities. Earlier this year, Ballarat brought back paddle boats to the lake for the first time in years. It returns the spirit of water sporting to the lake, who once hosted the rowing and canoeing events for the 1956 Olympics. Going back further in history, the man-made lake was established around 150 years ago, with the name endowed to it being entirely accidental. The story goes that a settler asked a local indigenous woman what the name of the swamp was. Her reply, ‘wendaaree’, was not the name of the location but actually translates to ‘go away’.
Botanical Gardens
On the Western side of the lake (on the opposite side to the town centre), you’ll find the Botanical Gardens. They are styled after a traditional English pleasure garden with hedges, ornamental plants, a rosarium and neat paths for walking. One of the features is the ‘Prime Minister Avenue’ which features bronze busts of every Australian Prime Minister; although it seems they haven’t caught up to the most recent ones yet. Another feature is the Robert Clark Conservatory, which was built in 1995 in honour of the co-founder of the The Ballarat Courier newspaper. The modern building is free to enter until 4.30pm each day and houses beautiful floral displays. Ballarat is particularly renowned for its begonias, and the city blooms with the celebration of the Begonia Festival every March.
Art Gallery of Ballarat
Established in 1884, the Art Gallery of Ballarat is the oldest (and also the largest) regional art gallery in Australia. The grand staircase makes a strong first impression, but you’ll find the art to be equally inspiring as you wander the elegant 19th century rooms. There are thematic collections, with a strong focus on the history of Australian art, from Indigenous art to Australian impressionism. I found the works of Aunty Marlene Gilson to be particularly interesting. She is a Wadawarrung Elder who reclaims history by painting historical events, from the Ballarat goldfields and beyond, from an Indigenous viewpoint. It has been said that the ‘story of Australian art cannot be grasped comprehensively without taking into account the collections of the Gallery’. When I visited, they were also showcasing the work of local students who had submitted art folios as part of their high school completion.
Sanctuary Day Spa
Leave your stresses at the door, this place is heaven. There is nothing more relaxing than lazing in a perfectly heated pool, which looks out onto a window-full of majestic gum trees. The only reason for you to leave the pool, is to enjoy the dry heat of the wood stove sauna. Typically access to The Sanctuary is bookable only as an add on to a treatment (like a massage), however you can book casual access the The Sanctuary alone within 24 hours. It’s great value at $30 for an hour, inclusive of a locker and robe. We were lucky enough to have it entirely to ourselves too, late on a Saturday afternoon, which just added to the luxury of the experience.
The Amazing Mill Markets
They’ve self-named themselves ‘amazing’ but this permanent, undercover market is perfect for treasure hunters. You’ll find everything from nostalgic branded packaging (like Kelloggs tins and Coca Cola memorabilia), to vintage clothing, retro glassware and antiques. It’s a real time warp – you could spend hours rummaging around.
EAT + DRINK
Roy Hammond
Roy Hammond was a sign-writer whose business was once based in this building, which has now been re-incarnated as a bar and restaurant. If you peer down the cobblestone laneway, you’ll see a beautiful gold-leafed sign preserving a little history. Make sure to book ahead, this place was absolutely buzzing on a weeknight. With floor-to-ceiling shelves requiring a ladder to reach some of gins and whiskies range, you know you’re in for a good night. Roy’s offers an Asian inspired menu with plenty of cocktails to accompany your food, or is it the other way around? If you’re after a menu recommendation though, my favourite dish was the soba salad.
18th Amendment
18th Amendment invites you to ‘grab some giggle water, make some whoopee and try not to get to zozzled’, which I think sets the tone right. This place makes you feel like you’re in a secret underground spot, having a sneaky booze, during the prohibition era. I was beginning to think we’d lost our way until we found a little lamp lit lane way, leading the way to this bar. I loved the jazzy tunes and comfortable couches. The cocktail list is inventive, but it’s also the kind of place where you can ask for something that suits your taste.
Johnny Alloo
This corner cafe celebrates Ballarat’s first restauranteur, John Alloo, who opened a restaurant for the gold miners in the 1850s. The owner says that their intent to pay homage to the hospitality that he provided. A good vibe with it’s retro fit out, accompanied by good food and coffee. The only heads up is that the pricing is a little exxy for brunch.
Hydrant Food Hall
The fact that this cafe is set in an old fire station just gives it the cool factor. I love a place with a little bit of history and the original Grinnell sprinkler system delivers just that. History is complimented by modern festoon lighting and fire engine red chairs, but most importantly, top notch coffee. Definitely a good spot to start your day.
